Not all linen and cotton are created equal — and knowing how to dress for the summer sun without sacrificing style is an art in itself. With the heatwave in full swing, sunscreen at the ready, and BBQs firing up, the age-old question arises:
What do you wear when it’s just unbearably hot?
Here in Koh Samui, where heat and humidity are a daily affair, it’s clear that throwing on holiday staples like denim shorts, crochet dresses, and swimwear doesn’t quite cut it for day-to-day life, let alone the office or city errands. Inspired by the effortlessly elegant women over fifty, seen in shows like The White Lotus, I’m sharing my insider tips on how to stay cool, comfortable, and impossibly chic — even when the sun won’t relent.
Natural Fabrics Are Your Secret Weapon
Comfort is the cornerstone of a great summer look, and that starts with fabrics that breathe. Cotton and linen are the undisputed MVPs of the season. But as anyone who lives in Asia knows, not all cotton and linen are created equal.
Linen, with its light, airy weave, is my constant companion. It keeps you cool while giving off a relaxed yet refined elegance. When it comes to cotton, I seek out fine weaves — they’re exceptionally breathable and soft against the skin. Another favorite? Crêpe georgette — it’s light, flowing, and adds a whisper of ethereal beauty to any look.
Some stylists in cooler climates, like Vogue Turkey’s fashion director Ceylan Atınç, swear by heavier linens and crisp cottons to maintain sharp silhouettes. Fabulous for a breezy Dutch summer, but entirely impractical in Asia’s sweltering embrace. Here, it’s about fluidity and breathability, not structure and stiffness.
Silk: Summer’s Underrated Star
When the evening breeze finally stirs, silk reigns supreme. It doesn’t cling, it dances with your every move, and it feels heavenly against sun-kissed skin. Whether it’s a simple silk slip dress or a tailored kaftan, silk transforms summer dressing into something effortless.
Personally, I adore a silk kaftan or kimono — vibrant hues, delicate embroidery, easy to slip on for a leisurely seaside lunch or an evening stroll through Portofino or Saint-Tropez. The loose silhouette allows the body to breathe, and the silk feels deliciously indulgent.
Trouser Tricks: Structured Yet Breezy
If flowy dresses and kaftans aren’t your thing, don’t worry — trousers can absolutely work in the heat. I love playing with contrasts: pairing oversized masculine trousers (borrowed from my husband’s wardrobe or picked up in Vietnam) with a simple tank top or crisp cotton poplin shirt.
Tailored Bermuda shorts, relaxed linen trousers, and even lightweight waistcoats allow you to create structure without sacrificing comfort. It’s about shapes that skim the body, not cling to it. In the hottest months, I find it cooler to wear pieces that don’t cling directly to the skin — letting air circulate is key.
Colour Your World
Summer is the time to turn up the colour dial. I love vibrant hues that reflect the joy of the season — mustard yellows, emerald greens, deep reds, and sunset pinks. Colours that not only lift the mood but also complement a summer tan beautifully.
This is also the season to experiment with unexpected combinations. Forget muted neutrals. I lean towards bold florals, not the tired, cliché kind, but lively, artistic blooms. Think Monet-inspired florals clashing with lemon yellows or oranges mixed with shocking pinks — combinations that feel playful, daring, and alive.
When it comes to prints, I stay away from predictable stripes. Stripes in summer? Boring. Cliché. Expected. Instead, I prefer offbeat abstracts, graphic patterns, or wild floral explosions that feel fresh and full of personality.
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